Early Middle Age

Imagine the 7th century, a time when a network of Buddhist viharas (monasteries) spanned the length and breadth of India. A Chinese monk named Hiuen Tsang visited the region. He toured sites such as Ajanta and Kanheri, offering a beautiful account of the Buddhist traditions in Maharashtra. Later, in the 14th century, the Moroccan traveler Ibn Battuta—while in the service of the Sultan of Delhi—had the opportunity to visit Daulatabad (Devgiri) during a tour of South India. In his travelogues, he praises Daulatabad’s formidable fort, its defensive systems, and its town planning. He writes, "Daulatabad is the strongest fort in Hindustan; there is no other fort like it in the country."

In the 15th century, the Russian merchant Afanasy Nikitin crossed three seas to reach India. He arrived in Junnar via Chaul. Writing about this region—rich in trade routes, forts, and rock-cut caves—he notes that the city of Junnar is situated atop a high, rocky hill. It is protected not by ramparts, but solely by the grace of God. The path ascending the mountain takes a full day to traverse and is so narrow that only one person can walk along it at a time; if two people meet head-on, one must step aside to let the other pass. It is evident that Nikitin is referring to ‘Naneghat’.

Medieval Period

William Finch, an English officer, accompanied Hawkins—who had come to Surat to establish an East India Company office. While traveling from the north towards the Deccan, he saw the forts of Salher and Mulher. Finch wrote, "Salher and Mulher are cities with significant populations."

During the era of Shivaji Maharaj, the Sahyadri range itself played the role of a military commander. Just as 'General Winter' came to Russia's aid during the Second World War, 'General Sahyadri' came to the rescue of Swarajya. The massive mountain ranges tormented and exhausted the enemy within this region. Shivaji Chhatrapati’s immense confidence in the Sahyadris is evident in his correspondence; in one letter, he told a Mughal official, "In this region of ours, it is difficult even to let one's imagination run wild." Many foreign travelers visited the Sahyadris during this period. One of them was the French traveler Jean de Thévenot. His written account of Ellora is the first in the world to have been published and widely circulated. Upon seeing the Kailasa Temple, he remarked that anyone witnessing this magnificent structure would realize it transcends mere human achievement. One cannot help but marvel at these vast temples, pillars, and exquisite figures carved from natural rock thousands of years ago.

Turning the page of history from Thévenot, we encounter another French traveler: Abbé Carré. He, too, visited the region during the time of Shivaji Maharaj. Wishing to travel through Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj's territory, he visited the Maratha administrative office to obtain the necessary travel permit. He recorded the insights gained from conversations with Maratha officials in his travelogue—information that is invaluable for the study of Shivaji Maharaj’s life. He writes, “Shivaji Maharaj was not merely an excellent soldier; his grasp of fort construction surpassed even that of professional engineers. He had studied geography deeply and possessed intimate knowledge not only of major cities but also of small villages, hamlets, settlements, the terrain, and even the vegetation. He had personally created highly accurate maps.”

A Portuguese traveler named Cosme da Guarda also visited during the era of Shivaji. Residing in Goa, he kept a close watch on Maratha affairs. Remarkably, inspired by Shivaji Maharaj’s renown, he authored a complete biography of the leader in 1695—a full biography written by a foreigner! This is considered the first biography of Shivaji Maharaj written by a non-Indian. Regarding the Sahyadri region, he notes, “Shivaji Maharaj spent much of his time amidst the mountain ranges and valleys, launching surprise attacks on enemy territories.” Later, describing the raid on the Junnar marketplace and the Naneghat pass, he writes, “Shivaji Maharaj proceeded towards the Junnar Ghat; the mountain path is so treacherous and narrow that people can only ascend it in single file. If one encounters someone coming from the opposite direction, one must press oneself against the rock face to let the other pass. Not only must the ascent be made on foot, but extreme caution is required; a single slip or fall would result in one’s body being shattered into a thousand pieces before reaching the bottom.” When Mirza Raja Jai Singh invaded Swarajya, the traveler Gward wrote about the impregnability of Purandar Fort: "A proposal was made to bombard the fort, for which Mirza Raja Jai Singh had brought along massive cannons. These cannons were so heavy that forty oxen were yoked to pull each one. However, they proved useless for attacking a fort of this kind, for it was not man-made but crafted by the Almighty Himself. Moreover, its ramparts were so sturdy and strong that they withstood cannonballs, the wind, and even lightning strikes with disdain. The plateau atop the fort—where inhabitants could seemingly converse with the stars—spanned more than half a kos in width (1 kos = approx. 3 km). It held food supplies sufficient for years and an abundance of sweet water; water that cascaded down the mountain to nourish the vegetation at its base." Even Shaista Khan was so intimidated by the Sahyadris that he wrote to the Emperor, stating, "It is impossible to subdue Shivaji Maharaj in this mountainous terrain."

Amidst this influx of travelers, a foreign medical officer named John Fryer also visited Maharashtra. While he documented Shivaji Maharaj’s coronation at Raigad, he also extensively explored the Sahyadri ranges. He writes, "On May 22, 1675, leaving my fellow travelers behind, I set out via the Naneghat route. I reached the pass by noon. Compared to the old route, this path seemed much easier and shorter; it spans a distance of about ten kos from Junnar. During the journey, we found ourselves situated between two of Shivaji Maharaj's forts." As we looked down from the mountain pass, another fort came into view; it resembled the fort at Junnar (Shivneri). A shout came towards us from that fort. I sent a man to respond to them but continued walking. I was forced to halt upon reaching a narrow section of the pass, as 300 bullocks—hauling carts laden with salt—had become stuck in the narrow passage. At appropriate intervals along the pass, generous individuals had constructed water tanks containing clean, potable water. Below the pass lay a beautiful forest that offered both shade and a pleasing sight.

John Fryer also visited Shivneri Fort, and he recorded a truly remarkable observation there. He writes that some of the cisterns on Shivneri contain ghee stored for as long as 400 years—a substance 'Hindu' people value as highly as gold. It is considered particularly beneficial for treating chronic joint pain or eye ailments. “One of these cisterns was opened for me, and I was given some of the ghee from it; it was black, foul-smelling, and sticky. There are other cisterns there for water as well. The water in them looks extremely filthy—appearing green, yellow, or reddish in different places. This water collects during the rains and becomes thick as it evaporates in the heat of the sun. The water in some cisterns is so unpleasant that people drop onions into it to mask the taste. Shivneri also has grain storage facilities capable of sustaining thousands of families for up to seven years.”

Furthermore, foreign travelers who visited during the era of Shivaji—such as Tavernier, Bernier, and Manucci—wrote extensively about the Sahyadris, the region's dense wilderness, and its forts.

The British Era

Driven by inexhaustible willpower, a remarkable individual wandered across the expanse of the Sahyadris in the 19th century and left behind a rich legacy of experiences captured in words. It would not be misplaced to call him the very first "content creator" of the Sahyadris in modern parlance. His name was Francis Gale!

Gale, who had arrived in India around 1860 to propagate Christianity, was based in Pune. The Maratha Empire had fallen in 1818, and the British had reduced the Maratha forts to a state of utter neglect and ruin. Many forts were demolished, and for years thereafter, the general public was barred from even visiting them. Yet, amidst these times, Francis began his explorations of the Sahyadris. After traversing the region—covering peaks and forts like Kalsubai, Torna, Rajgad, Raigad, and Lingana—he penned an article for the periodical Woodward's in 1878. This could well be considered the first-ever blog written about the Sahyadris. His article is detailed, and here is what he recorded:

"Most forts in Maharashtra share certain common features: they are situated atop high mountains, protected by natural ramparts, and often involve extremely difficult ascents. Typically, there is a slope at the base, while massive rock formations dominate the summit. The cliff faces on these rocks are sheer and towering; sometimes they provide natural defense, while at other times, they are further fortified with man-made walls. Entrance gates are constructed along the mountain spurs. Inside, the level ground accommodates a settlement and the Balekilla (citadel), which serves as the final line of defense. Most forts also possess excellent water facilities." Often, flights of steps and series of doorways are carved directly into the rock. This chain of forts poses a challenge to any enemy approaching the Deccan from the north.

Francis Gale, who ascended Kalsubai Peak, writes about the dawn view he witnessed. Standing at its base, one could see a range of forts including Trimbak, Anjaneri, Harshagad, Dhair, and Ramshej. On the horizon, ranges of forts like Saptashrungi, Achala, Rajdher, and Indrai gleamed in the golden sunlight. A short distance away lay the twin forts of Ankai-Tankai, and in the same line, one could see Aundha-Patta, Harihargad, Madangad, and Mauli. Dense forests towards the Konkan region and banks of clouds surged over the mountains like ocean waves. The hills of Matheran appeared like islands floating in the sea.

Later, Francis visited Torna. He writes that Sinhagad is visible from near Pune, yet many are unaware that it is a fort. It was the first fort conquered by Shivaji Maharaj in 1646, when he was merely nineteen years old. Given the fierce resistance it offered initially, it earned the title 'Cradle of Maharashtra.' The view from the top was truly breathtaking. The fort Shivaji Maharaj built after Torna was Rajgad. It is extremely high, and the ascent is difficult; its construction and natural layout are incredibly robust. On one side lie bastions and gateways, while the other is flanked by deep valleys—all of which made it strategically brilliant from a military standpoint.

Raigad is located in the Konkan region. Shivaji Maharaj’s Samadhi (mausoleum) and the saffron flag still stand proudly there today. The fort has only one entrance, while the other three sides are guarded by sheer cliffs. It houses a temple dedicated to Lord Mahadev and other remaining ruins. Although it is possible to view the Lingana fort, reaching it is extremely difficult. It stands as a sheer, vertical pillar of black rock at the tip of a mountain. At one time, access was gained by placing a bamboo ladder against the rock face. Francis Gale did manage to reach the site, but he could not enter the fort itself.

Gale subsequently set out from Surgad, crossed the Pabal Pass, and undertook a long midnight trek through the forest via Gonda village. Finally, descending into the Konkan region, he arrived near Lingana. He describes how there was only one way to enter—via an old bamboo ladder; once that ladder broke, the fort became permanently inaccessible. He notes that a two-day expedition is sufficient to experience all of this—especially for a young officer viewing it with a military eye. If someone were to undertake this expedition today—equipped with a bamboo ladder—they could provide a comprehensive description of Lingana’s fortifications with military precision, something I have been unable to do.